Quaderni IRCrES 21 – Cap.3
Le certificazioni ambientali nelle industrie tessili, abbigliamento e pelletteria in Italia
The environmental certifications in the textile, clothing and leather industries in Italy
Giampaolo Vitalia, Elena Melloniab
a CNR-IRCrES, Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche – Istituto di Ricerca sulla Crescita Economica Sostenibile, Strada delle Cacce 73, 10135 Torino, Italia
b Università di Torino, Dipartimento di Economia e Statistica “Cognetti de Martiis”, Campus Luigi Einaudi, Lungo Dora Siena 100/A, 10154 Torino, Italia
corresponding author: giampaolo.vitali@ircres.cnr.it
Abstract
This paper summarizes the main results of the participation of CNR-IRCrES- at the research project MICS-PNRR[1] about the green strategies of the Italian textile industry, in comparison with the clothing and leather industries. The paper shows how the textile, clothing and leather industries implement green strategies through environmental certifications of their organization and products. In general, certified firms have a different economic structure from non-certified firms: the former are bigger (both in term of turnover, employment, exports and imports), have a higher export intensity (export/turnover) and import intensity (import/turnover), better financial ratings. The economic and financial structure also shows differences between the two groups of companies, both in terms of profitability indicators and in the calculation of financial ratings. The paper also studies the greenwashing process implemented with reference to the communication of green strategies related to environmental certification, process that is not widely used by textile companies: very few non-certified companies communicate certification information via their website, less than 2% of the total. From these preliminary results it also seems that within the supply chain the behavior of companies in green strategies through environmental certification is different between companies upstream of the supply chain (B2B) and those of the areas closest to the finished product (B2C).
Keywords: textile industry, environmental sustainability, certifications.
JEL codes: L6, F14, G30
DOI: 10.23760/2499-6661.2024.21.03
ISBN: ISBN 978-88-98193-36- 3
ISSN (online): 2499-6661
How to Cite
Vitali, G. & Melloni, E. (2023). Le certificazioni ambientali nelle industrie tessili, abbigliamento e pelletteria in Italia. In Finardi, U. (cur.). Cambiamento climatico e sostenibilità: una visione multidisciplinare (pp. 67-86). Quaderni IRCrES 21. CNR-IRCrES. http://dx.doi.org/10.23760/2499-6661.2024.21.03
[1] Questo studio è stato realizzato nell’ambito di MICS (Made in Italy Circular and Sustainable) Extended Partnerships e ha ricevuto finanziamenti da Next-Generation EU (PNRR italiano–M4 C2, invest1.3–DD1551.11-10-2022, pe00000004, COPPA MICS B53C22004100001). I punti di vista e le opinioni espresse sono, tuttavia, solo quelle degli autori e non riflettono necessariamente quelle dell’Unione Europea o della Commissione Europea. Né l’Unione Europea né la Commissione Europea possono essere ritenute responsabili.